DORIS is extreme, yet approachable as any well-crafted Imperial Stout.  In fact, I gave this beer an A+ after sippin’ on half the bottle.  Allow me to explain why…

You see, when it comes to Russian Imperial Stouts I like mine on the super astringently bitter side.  Almost tastes like pure Black Patent, charcoal, and oh yeah, hops.  While many a brewery produce good interpretations of the style, I found that I gravitate towards ones that seem to enter a higher stratosphere when it comes to burnt malt character.

No doubt about it, this beer has all the makings of a great stout from the dirty motor oil thick pour and deep mocha head to the intense aroma that proceeds it.  Completely opaque no light gets through this brew.  The aroma is monumental.  Thick notes of black licorice, tar, blackstrap molasses, charred wood, campfire smoke, and burnt grains prevailed.  A spicy and piney hop profile was very noticeable in both the aroma and taste.

The mouthfeel this thick and viscous due to the intense grain bill and oatmeal addition.  It is slick, silky, oily, and on the front of the palate velvety.  The flavor however, is much deeper than BORIS.  It took me some time to warm up to the little brother, but this beer was an instant classic in my mind.  Due to the astringent nature, alcohol content that was balanced just right, and the hopping.  Not one aspect of this beer was completely overpowering.  Yes, the malt profile was dark and burnt, but the hops were something to be reckoned with.  The beer was sticky on the lips which moved to astringent and resinous on the finish.  When enjoyed with spicy salsa the spiciness cancels out leaving a Rauchbier-like effect on the aftertaste.  I was left with an aftertaste that was woody, smokey and tasted like it had been barrel aged minus the caramel and vanilla.  Dry and oaky basically layered atop some massive burnt grains.  This beer is a definite must try for any Russian Imperial Stout fan.

Pouring like dirty motor oil it was thick, black, viscous and only produced a think dark espresso head.  The head dissolves slightly leaving a ring around the glass with minor bubbles in the center.  Boris has some deep molasses legs which were noticeable when I swirled the beer.  Overall, it looks like a big stout.

When I popped the cap there was a very thick baked wort smell that came up from the bottle and glass.  It is very astringent.  There are roasted burnt malt notes but for the most part the biggest aromas were burnt caramel and black-strap molasses.  Dark plum notes covered in bakers and dark chocolate.  The oats gave the noes a slick quality and softened the chocolate bitterness.  I picked up a faint floral hop component along with a mild abv warmth.

The mouthfeel is oily, slick, velvety, and viscous.  It tastes how it looks and smells…palate coating.  The flavors really do come out in a great way towards the middle and back of each sip.  Up front, that baked wort quality really sets the stage for the astringent flavors that proceed.  These flavors build upon that  initial jolt either adding to the astringency or mellowing it out.  The dark bitter chocolate notes do both actually.  At some points, the finish and aftertaste they provide the sweetness which balances out the grains and hops.  On the other hand, in the middle of the sip the dark chocolate notes lend a chalky drying effect.  The oats give depth and overall help to smooth this beer over…especially the abv which is very well hidden in the taste.  Some hints of licorice and dark fruits ended up on the roof of my mouth in the aftertaste.

I was a little hesitant at first given the baked wort aromas, but after letting this beer open up a little at room temp I found BORIS to be a wonderful stout.  It is meaty, full bodied, strong, complex, and deep.

Interestingly, enough the pour was not as viscous as the original.  My guess is that it has to do with the barrel aging which probably helped to thin it out a little due to the alcohol content.  I was surprised to see that the abv on this beer is the same and not higher.  In any case, the beer is still ink black, but it has picked up some ruby/garnet hues due to the wood caramels and whiskey hues.  The head does develop quickly and easier, but in the end faded by the time I was done taking the picture.

Wow…the aroma is awesome!  Huge, yet light notes of vanilla, char, wood sugars/caramels, dates, figs, creamy dark chocolate, chocolate covered raisins and licorice.  The abv on this beer was very pronounced given the fact that is sat in whiskey barrels for some time.  I found that this aging process helped to bring out the darker burnt malt notes lifting them from the astringent mess of the original BORIS.  The fruitier notes found in Bourbon and whiskey was very noticeable and welcomed as it added a softer dimension to the brew.  There was an additional hint of spices like chilies, pepper, and fennel added to the mix.

Super smooth.  Each sip was luxurious, chocolate-centered, and creamy.  Dark fruits danced among deeply roasted malt flavors.  The oats were still evident which pleased me as I enjoy a good Oatmeal stout from time to time.  The mouthfeel was silky and velvety, but lighter and softer due to the aging.  Great oak and charred wood notes helped to round out the rough edges, yet at the same time added a different astringency.  Wonderful vanilla notes that pair well with the oats used.  The abv is really only noticeable in the aromas and in the finish ever so gently.  This could get you in trouble if you are not careful.  I have to say, this is one of the best barrel aged imperial stouts I’ve had to date.  It is not harsh like the Goose Island BCS beers, and smoother than Great Divides Yeti series.  However, keep in mind that I’m drinking a 2009 vintage.  Sampled fresh, it might be a different experience.

The pour was similar to the barrel aged rendition in that while it was on the thicker end of the spectrum, it flowed easier out of the bottle.  The head developed quicker and was a darker shade of espresso/mocha than other BORIS beers.  It too, faded relatively quickly into the brew which had similar legs that that of the original.  The color was in my opinion darker if that is possible.

When it came time for the aroma I was not sure what to expect.  Lifting the glass to my nose there was a very evident alcohol heat that rose up to greet me.  As compared to the original BORIS, there was a more pronounced astringent bitterness.  The oats were still recognizable, but they played second fiddle to the sweeter, smokier presence of the English malt.  I must say, this was interesting to experience.  I had a sample glass of the original right next to me and the aromas from both differed considerably.  While BORIS has a slick, oily, oatmeal character on the nose, the 100th batch heightened the burnt malt qualities and had layers of a smokey kiln effect.  It had a slight essence of burnt popcorn as well as salty seaweed.  Overall, it was more roasty and astringent in the aroma.

Different in many regards, this beer was knock out.  While I don’t think the overall thickness and viscosity of the beer diminished, the stronger burnt malt flavors were quicker to hit the palate than before.  The original developed in the latter half of the sip where as this variation hit you right away.  There were also sweeter point along the sip making it a full bodied brew.  Taking some time to enjoy the glass I realized this beer had similar qualities to that of a Dry Irish stout (i.e., Guinness and Beamish).  That burnt barley quality was evident in this beer even though a pale malt was used.  In addition, there was also a smokey aspect to this brew in the finish and aftertaste.  I was able pick up on the oat quality, but that too seemed muffled behind the smokier malt profile.

Enter Great Lakes Brewing Company, a Midwest enterprise known globally for its skill in crafting classic styles. What is more, they know how to use German malts and hops better than any other brewery I’ve tasted (so far). Their version of the Doppelbock is called The Doppelrock. Interestingly enough, while Great Lakes brews The Doppelrock with great care for the classic recipe, they depart from popular nomenclature. Most beers in this style have names that use the “-ator” suffix (e.g. Salvator, Tröegenator, Rejewvenator, etc). Not Great Lakes. Nbd. What do they care, as long as their beer is incredible? Available in February and March, The Doppelrock is one of Great Lakes’ best seasonal offerings.

Great Lakes suggests pairing The Doppelrock with hearty beef stew … so I filled my imperial pint glass just as I was putting homemade chili and cornbread casserole out on the table. What a combo that turned out to be! In appearance the beer is a deep, deep reddish brown. From the second the beer left the bottle and splashed into my glass, I was literally roundhouse kicked in the face by Mr. Malt. It was such glorious aggression. I have been nursing a serious love of malty beer, and I knew from the moment I bought The Doppelrock that I was in for a treat.

There is no way around the malt in this beer. Those that do not care for malty flavors should stay far, far away from The Doppelrock. Its malt bill is menacing: Harrington 2-Row Base Malt, Munich, Cara 45, and Chocolate, all heaped into the recipe with the glee of a little child. For balance, Great Lakes uses Hallertau hops (a locally grown of German noble hop). So, while the beer is made with American-grown ingredients, it thoroughly incorporates the classic German tradition. With an ABV just under 8% and only 18 IBUs, The Doppelrock is a malty face-melter to be reckoned with. Beneath the foamy tan head (this beer has great carbonation) lies a beer that delivers toasted bread, biscuit, molasses, chocolate, and coffee flavors. It is delightfully sweet on the palate but surprisingly balanced by the Hallertau and CO₂.

This was my first time trying The Doppelrock, and I will most certainly be back. It’s yet another excellent beer from Great Lakes to put on my favorites list. In my opinion, The Doppelrock is a perfection of the style. Grade: A+

Tom: I thoroughly enjoy GLBC beers for their fine craftmanship and range of styles, but I’ve never considered myself a huge Doppelbock fan.  So, there I stood in the store debating on whether or not a snag a bottle (I did in the name of expanding my palate).  What I found diving into this brownish-copper brew was an above average interpretation of the style.  Taking into my account my bias, I approached this beer after consulting the BJCP and recalling other Doppelbocks I’ve had.

The first thing that I noticed was the strong malt notes which had some depth and character.  After all, it is a malt-centric brew.  However, exploring the aroma a little deeper I picked up on a very dry albiet harsh biscuit aroma.  This was compensated by a chocolate character, but it still lacked that smooth quality found in German variations.  This carried over into the taste as well.  While possessing hints of nutmeg, cinammon, chocolate, toasted bread, the biscuit notes seemed to overwhelm.  This lead to a dry mouthfeel and finish.  From what I experience before the malts gave a smooth almost jammy dimension.  Not so much here.  Granted the hops could have contributed to the dryness, but overall I was left wanting more.  There was a clean lager yeast quality and a minor grassy hop presence the more I sipped.  The lasting impressions were boozy (ie harsh), bland, musty, and dry. Grade: B

It is hazy reddish-amber in color and has a cream head with a bit of lacing. Nice. Then the ordinary gets extraordinary. The aroma is grapefruit, orange and pine. If you don’t gulp it, because it’s so good, you come upon some breadish qualities. It tastes better than it smells and it smells great. What a wonderful balance of hops and not too sweet caramel malts. With low carbonation and smooth as silk mouthfeel it borders on ideal. In fact the mouthfeel is somewhere between smooth, rich and oily. It just doesn’t last long enough. I popped two of these babies down at my first sitting. My only regret was I drank one too many so I have to buy more. And at $12 a pack I wanted to stretch it out. Unbelievably great beer. Similar to but better than a double IPA. Go for it and tell me if this wowed you like it wowed me.

ABV: 8%

Grade: A+

Great Lakes’ version of the Dortmunder is, well, award-winning. The brewer calls this year-round brew like it is: a “delicate balance between sweet malt and dry hop flavors.” The grain bill boasts Harrington 2-row and Caramel 60 malts, followed by Cascade (citrusy, flowery) and Hallertau (spicy, fruity, and decidedly German) hops. In all, a bill that has some integrity.

So far every time I’ve poured a Great Lakes beer into a glass it has been exactly the same: the quintessential sound of cold beer on glass, which warms as it froths. Head develops quickly and you can easily craft the pour exactly how you prefer it. I like a good 2-3 finger head on my beer, and that was easily accomplished with the Dortmunder Gold. The light and foamy white bubbles made sure I smelled that sweet malt body right away. So fresh and so clean!

As for taste, mouthfeel, you can tell why this is a flagship beer. Wonderful, bready malt sweetness pervades, but is equaled by a great hop spiciness/bitterness that’s bursting with flavor. A super balanced beer, drinkable, and still you’re able to identify the sweet and bitterness separately. So, so enjoyable.

Does Great Lakes deign to make an average beer? I haven’t had one yet…

ABV: 5.8%

Grade: A

But it’s been too long, so a little 6 pounds, 5 ounces of crying, gurgling, milk-drinking fun isn’t going to stop my fingers from striking these keys and my mouth from tasting the hops, malt, yeast and bounty of Great Lakes newest brew.

First off, Great Lakes has been, well, great. My exposure began with their sampler pack and I was more than pleased. Each brew seemed well crafted and tasty and this big IPA followed suit. It poured a rich golden, reminding me more of a nice Belgian, with a rich, solid head of ivory bobbing at the top. The hops scent was rich with a great blend of earthiness and citrus. Again, I can only describe it as rich, a dense, textured aroma both pleasing and aggressive. The citrus hits in the front of the taste, but a stinging hoppy burst follows closely behind. The earthiness continues and lingers for a long time after I’ve swallowed.

A solid beer and a great first step back into reviewing, I’ll definitely look forward to the three brews left in the fridge.

ABV: 9.1%

Grade: B+

In direct light, this beer is actually a dark reddish-brown color, and you’re able to catch a little bit of the lighter, toffee-ish malt in the nose that probably causes this. But coffee, bittersweet chocolate, and even charcoal are pushing and shoving for attention here. And the mouthfeel is truly perfect: medium-bodied, lightly carbonated, and smooth smooth smooth. Honestly, it might be my favorite aspect of this beer. There’s sweetness right upfront that immediately moves on to a dark espresso and chocolate bitterness, but it never ends up feeling burnt to me, which I think is hard to perfect in a porter. It’s also touted as having a “bold hop presence”, but I have trouble making out hops at all amidst the deep (and albeit, tasty) roastiness that lingers in your mouth. In any case, what you’ll find when drinking an Edmund Fitzgerald that you won’t with many other porters is…before you know it, you’ll be taking your last few sips and wondering where it all went. It stands in my book as one of the most sessionable craft brewed porters available…even among dark beers in general. And when has that ever been a bad thing? If you’re not sure you know what a traditional porter is supposed to taste like, here’s your chance to find out. Grade: A-

Michael: There is something serious about this beer. Its a memorial, of sorts, to the great ship, often found docking in Cleveland, the home of Great Lakes Brewing Co. It feels as though one should sit and think of sacrifice, devotion and tumultuous seas. Or just beer. Very good beer.

Its a deep brown, topped by waves of a tan head, like a shoreline foam that soaks into the beach sand. Its got a great nose, complex and exact. There is coffee and chocolate, hints of dark fruit, maybe raisins or plums and a rich malty layer. It tastes very similar and has the caliber of a rich piece of chocolate, smooth, deep and well-built. Its surprisingly refreshing for a darker brew, the texture making it easy to swig and the slightly bitter finish of hops capping off a wonderful tasting experience.

For my second Great Lakes attempt, Edmund Fitzgerald was anything but a ship wreck. This beer is a strong contrast, as well built as anything. Grade: A

ABV: 5.8%

Final Grade: A-

Burning River got its origins from just such a story. But no worries, this tasty brew is a far cry from river water. If you’re seeking a refresher, this one has hit on all the right points. Its color is rich, but not dark, an orange on the verge of tan in places. The head is frothy, but not sticky, puffing for a minute or two and then easing its way down into the glass. The hops are primarily grapefruit, simple, clean and clear. Carbonation is great, leaving a perfect balance of spark and smooth. It tastes much the same as it smells, but a caramel layer sneaks its way in and ends more bitter than it begins.

As a reward for a couple hours of lawn care, this was the perfect opening act for a relaxing afternoon. Grade: A-

John: This is my second favorite pale ale. But second is great considering pale ales are my favorite beer. This beer pours beautifully. It is inviting from the get go. Pristine in its clarity, gorgeous red in color, inspiring in carbonation and a strong foamy head. I’m talking myself into this being #1. But not quite. The fragrance is slight but hoppy. Beside the hops you have a backbone of yeast, florals and pine. The malts are slight enough so as to not overshadow the hops but strong enough to give substance and content to the beer. The mouthfeel is smooth and creamy so much so it’s nice told swish it around. At some point make sure to stop to enjoy the sweet caramel before the wonderfully bitter finish. Not my #1 but wouldn’t hesitate to spend a day on the Burning River. Grade: A

ABV: 6%

Overall Grade: A-